Dyes
Showing 19–36 of 42 results
Indigo – Pre-reduced
Pre-reduced (or "instant") Indigo comes as freeze-dried crystals, made in India. This saves the dyer the hassle of working with caustic lye to dissolve natural ground indigo into a stock solution.
All that's required to be done is to dissolve the Indigo crystals in a bucket of warm water with Thiourea dioxide (a reducing agent that removes air from the vat), add Soda Ash (dissolved in boiling water) to raise the pH, stir together and wait an hour or two. Do this outside on a nice warm day, or indoors with good ventilation.
Indigo, Natural Ground
PLEASE NOTE: Indigo dyeing is an art and science that you need to research ahead of time. It is NOT handled like any of the other natural dyes, by simmering on the stove!!
Finely ground powder from Indigofera tinctoria.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. A vat dye, Indigo must be handled in a special way in order for the complex chemical process to occur. It produces a gorgeous range of true blue shades, depending on how many dips are done and how much indigo is used in the vat. The indigo magic will not work with the standard methods used for other natural dyes.
TO USE: follow one of the many recipes for setting up an Indigo vat. The internet is a good search source. We stock some of the supplies needed, depending on the method. Thiourea dioxide and Soda Ash are the two most commonly used ingredients, which we stock. Lye is also used sometimes, and due to its caustic nature we will not stock it: any good hardware store sells lye in with the cleaning products. We highly recommend looking at the pdf tutorials on Indigo at www.maiwa.com
Light and washfastness: excellent.
Iron sulphate
Used as a MORDANT in natural dyeing, which allows the plant pigments to bond with the fibres.
Iron darkens or "saddens" colours. It takes only a tiny amount to do this, and one must be careful with iron: too much will harshen or damage fibres. If you use iron with any regularity, consider having a dedicated pot for this purpose, as it sticks to pot surfaces and will affect the colour of future dyebaths. A chipped enamal pot is perfect.
Used mainly on protein fibres such as wool, alpaca, silk. Although it can be used as a premordant, most natural dyers use iron to alter the colour at the end of the dyeing process. If you prefer to premordant, follow the usual steps using iron at 6% WOF.
TO USE: Weigh fibre before wetting. Dye in the bath of your choice, with or without an alum premordant. Calculate iron mordant required for 2% WOF (weight of fibre). Dissolve iron in hot water. Remove fibre from warm dyepot, stir in dissolved iron and re-enter fibre. Simmer for 5 minutes, cool then wash and rinse well.
Spent mordant solution may be safely disposed of by pouring in the garden. Iron sulphate is a common soil amendment in agriculture and horticulture.
CAUTION: wear a mask when handling powders. Wear gloves when using iron, as it stains skin easily. BEST DONE OUTDOORS or with very good ventilation. Avoid breathing fumes.
Kamala Powder
Ground dried fruits of Mallotus philippinensis, sometimes called Lotus Tree.
Use on protein fibres. Produces brilliant yellow and orange tones similar to Saffron. Pre-mordanting recommended. Use at 20-30% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: needs alkaline conditions: dissolve in warm water with Soda Ash at 3% WOG. Add wetted, premordanted fibre and simmer at 160-175°F for 1 hour. Cool, then rinse fibre in water with 1 cup of vinegar to neutralize the pH.
Light & washfastness: very good.
Lac, Powdered Extract
Powdered extract from resin produced by the Lac bug, a scale insect that is also the source of natural shellac, native to southern Asia.
Best on protein fibres. Lac produces red, crimson and burgundy tones similar to Cochineal but warmer. No mordant is required although they will extend the colour range. Use at 15-20% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: soak overnight in cold water with 5% Cream of Tartar to WOF. Simmer 15 minutes, cool and strain. Add more water if necessary then enter the fibre and simmer for 45 minutes. The dyebath will yield several more dips in softer shades.
Light/washfastness: excellent.
Logwood, Chips
Dried and cured chips from a tropical tree, Haematoxylum campechianum.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Pre-mordanting essential. Produces dramatic pink, blue, maroon and purple to black shades. Use at 20-50% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: place chips in a stocking and soak overnight in cold water. Bring to a simmer for 1 hour, cool and remove stocking. Enter premordanted fibre and simmer for 1 hour. Bath may be used for successive dips, and by the 3rd or 4th dip the colours being yielded change to golds, greens or browns.
Light and washfastness: average. Keep dyed fibres away from bright light.
NEW: Logwood Extract: this has already been soaked out then reduced down to a powder. It's expensive but very strong and super convenient. Simply weigh out the extract at around 10% weight of fibre for medium shades, or adjust for darker or lighter. Dissolve in a measuring cup with hot (but not boiling) water, add to your dyepot with water, mix well, add your fibre and simmer for an hour.
Logwood, Extract
Dried and cured chips from a tropical tree, Haematoxylum campechianum.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Pre-mordanting essential. Produces dramatic pink, blue, maroon and purple to black shades. Use at 20-50% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: place chips in a stocking and soak overnight in cold water. Bring to a simmer for 1 hour, cool and remove stocking. Enter premordanted fibre and simmer for 1 hour. Bath may be used for successive dips, and by the 3rd or 4th dip the colours being yielded change to golds, greens or browns.
Light and washfastness: average. Keep dyed fibres away from bright light.
NEW: Logwood Extract: this has already been soaked out then reduced down to a powder. It's expensive but very strong and super convenient. Simply weigh out the extract at around 10% weight of fibre for medium shades, or adjust for darker or lighter. Dissolve in a measuring cup with hot (but not boiling) water, add to your dyepot with water, mix well, add your fibre and simmer for an hour.
Madder, Ground
Dried roots of Rubia tinctoria, ground but not into fine dust. We have been once again been able to source true Madder, not Indian Madder.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Pre-mordanting recommended. A classic dye, giving dramatic reds, brick-reds to orange and coral. Use at 50-100% WOF (weight of fibre) for medium shades.
TO USE: simmer in water below 185°F for 30 minutes. Cool overnight, then repeat simmer and strain. Add more water and enter pre-mordanted fibre. Hold below 158°F for one hour. Higher temperatures may produce browns rather than oranges or reds, so try to avoid bringing to a high simmer or boil. Ground madder is much easier to work with than the whole dried roots..
Light and washfastness: excellent.
Madder, Whole
Dried roots of Rubia tinctoria, available ground or whole.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Pre-mordanting recommended. A classic dye, giving dramatic reds, brick-reds to orange and coral. Use at 50-100% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: simmer in water below 185°F for 30 minutes. Cool overnight, then repeat simmer and strain. Add more water and enter pre-mordanted fibre. Hold below 158°F for one hour. Higher temperatures produce browns. Whole madder is best chopped up first in an old blender, or soaked overnight then ground as best you can in the blender with the soaking liquid. Rita Buchanan once described the process as attempting to break pencils with your bare hands. Despite this, many dyers claim the best colours come from the dried, whole roots.
Light and washfastness: excellent.
Marigold, Dried Flowers
Ground, dried flower heads from common Marigolds, Tagetes spp.
Used on protein or cellulose fibres, giving yellow, orange or green-yellow depending on mordant. Use at 20-30% WOF for medium shades. Makes a good base for producing greens with an overdip of Indigo.
TO USE: soak in warm water overnight. Simmer in liquid 30-60 minutes at 155-160°F. Cool, strain, add more water if necessary then simmer premordanted fibre for 30-60 minutes at 155-160°F.
Light and washfastness: moderate to good with a mordant.
Munjeet, Ground
Ground dried roots of Rubia cordifolia, also called Indian Madder. A very close cousin to regular Madder.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Pre-mordanting recommended. Produces dramatic reds, crimson and coral/salmon. Basically follow a recipe for regular Madder. Use at 50-100% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: simmer in water below 185°F for 30 minutes. Cool overnight, then repeat simmer and strain. Add more water and enter pre-mordanted fibre. Hold below 158°F for one hour. Higher temperatures produce browns.
Light and washfastness: excellent
Myrobalan, Ground
Ground nuts of a tropical tree, Terminalia chebula.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Considered both a mordant and a dye, because of the high tannin content. Yields a light butter-yellow to beige or mushroom. Substantive, no mordant needed. Use at 15-20% WOF as a mordant on cellulose fibres. As a dye, use at 20-30% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE:soak 24 hrs in water to dissolve. Add more water if necessary and enter fibre. Bring to a high simmer for 1 hour. Let fibre cool overnight.
Light and washfastness: good.
Osage Orange, Shavings
Dried shavings from Maclura pomifera, a tree once widely planted in the US and eastern Canada for shetlerbelts. The wood is still used to make archery bows.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Pre-mordanting recommended. Strong and fast golden to lemon yellows are produced. Use at 20-50% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: place shavings in a stocking and soak overnight (or longer) in cold water. Bring to a simmer for 1 hour, cool and remove stocking. Enter premordanted fibre and simmer for 1 hour. Combines well with other dyes such as Logwood. Shavings can be dried and reused.
Light and washfastness: excellent.
Oxalic acid
Used occasionally as an ASSIST in natural dyeing. Oxalic acid will alter the shades of cochineal dyebaths, pushing them towards brilliant orange-red.
Also used to help absorption of Tin when premordanting. Dissolve with the tin in hot water at 2% WOF then add to premordanting water, mix and enter fibre.
TO USE: with cochineal baths, use at 2% WOF (weight of fibre). Dissolve first in hot water then mix into dyebath before entering fibre.
Dispose of spent dyebath on the ground.
CAUTION: POISON!!! Wear a mask when handling powders, absolutely wear gloves at every stage with Oxalic acid. MUST BE DONE OUTDOORS: fumes can be an extreme irritant.
Pomegranate, Ground Rind
Powdered/ground rind from the rinds of pomegranate fruits, Punica granatum. NOTE: this is NOT EXTRACT. This is the kind to use if you want to try it as a natural mordant.
We list this as a natural dye, but it is sometimes used as a mordant.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Yields soft yellows to green-yellows or gold. Substantive but pre-mordanting recommended. Use at 15-20% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: soak 24 hours in hot water, stirring occasionally, then strain. Place liquid and fibre in dyepot and add more water if necessary. Bring to a high simmer for 1 hour. Let fibre cool in dye liquor for at least one more hour or overnight then wash and rinse.
Light and washfastness: moderate to good.
PRO MX Fibre Reactive Dye Sampler – 6-pack
This class of dyes is specifically for using on plant/cellulose fibres such as cotton, linen, hemp or ramie as well as plant-sourced fibres such as viscose, bamboo (also a viscose) rayon and Tencel. It can also be used on silk, since silk will dye with either these or Acid Dyes.
These dyes strike under alkaline conditions so generally Soda Ash is used and very often rather large quantities of regular salt which helps to even out or level the colours. Regular room temperature conditions or warm outdoor weather are perfect, as the dyes do not need to be heated on the stove or steamed for success. Colours can be mixed in different ways to make an endless rainbow of other shades.
This kit contains:
- 10g each of Yellow, Red, Blue, Leaf Green, Reddish Purple, Black.
- 114g Pro Dye Activator
- 1/2 oz Low-Foam Synthrapol
- Dye instructions
There is enough total dye in this kit to dye approximately 3 Lbs of fibre, yarn or fabric a medium shade.
The dyes are safe and easy-to-use but please refer to the Dye Safety/Handling Information on the Pro Chemical & Dye website.
Soda ash
Used with fibre reactive dyes as a colour FIXATIVE. Soda ash raises the pH and allows the dye to bond with the fibre. Generally used only with cellulose (plant) fibres such as cotton or flax. Also known as washing soda or sal soda, though this is a more pure form that the washing soda sold in supermarkets.
Also sometimes used in natural dyeing to create more alkaline conditions, and thus altering the colour with certain plants. Extensively used for indigo vat dyeing.
TO USE: Follow dye manufacturer’s directions for amounts and timing.
Dispose of spent dyebath in the usual way, most likely down the drain.
CAUTION: Wear a mask when handling powders. Wear gloves, can be a skin irritant.
Sumac Powder
Ground, dried leaves of a small tree native to the Mediterranean, Rhus coriaria. This has been used for tanning leather for centuries, producing a yellowish-green colour. It was once widely used in the woolen trade to produce shades of brown through tan to yellow-brown and olive and is sometimes called Tanner's Sumac.
Used mainly on protein fibres but worth experimenting with on cotton and other plant fibres. We can't find much information, but suggesting trying this at 20-30% WOF for medium shades, as a starting point..
TO USE: soak in warm water overnight. Simmer in liquid 30-60 minutes at 170-190°F. Cool, strain, add more water if necessary then simmer premordanted fibre for 30-60 minutes at 170-190°F. Lower temperatures (below 160°F) may help the yellow pigments to shine through, and keep down the brown tones.
Light and washfastness: probably good to excellent with a mordant.
