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Pomegranate, Ground Rind
$3.63 – $26.73
Powdered/ground rind from the rinds of pomegranate fruits, Punica granatum. NOTE: this is NOT EXTRACT. This is the kind to use if you want to try it as a natural mordant.
We list this as a natural dye, but it is sometimes used as a mordant.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Yields soft yellows to green-yellows or gold. Substantive but pre-mordanting recommended. Use at 15-20% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: soak 24 hours in hot water, stirring occasionally, then strain. Place liquid and fibre in dyepot and add more water if necessary. Bring to a high simmer for 1 hour. Let fibre cool in dye liquor for at least one more hour or overnight then wash and rinse.
Light and washfastness: moderate to good.
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Tin Mordant
Used as a MORDANT in natural dyeing, which allows the plant pigments to bond with the fibres.
Tin (Stannous chloride) brightens colours and really makes them "pop". However, it is one of the trickier mordants to use, and rather expensive. Some dyers prefer to premordant with tin, while many simply add "a pinch" at the end of the dye process, and heat the fibre for another fifteen minutes or so, cool and then rinse as usual. The amount recommended for this is only 25% of the usual premordanting amounts, below.
Used mainly on protein fibres such as wool, alpaca, silk. Tin can make fibre feel harsh and brittle, so do not exceed the recommended amounts. Yarns can also easily scorch during tin premordanting. Do not pack the pot too full of fibre! An upturned rack, marbles or stones can help keep yarns off the bottom of your pot.
TO USE: Weigh fibre. Calculate mordant required for .5 to 2% WOF (weight of fibre). Weigh tin and dissolve in hot water. Fill pot with sufficient water for the fibre to move, add tin and stir. Enter fibre. Bring to 180-200°F and hold 1 hour. Stir yarns frequently. Cool, remove fibre and wash well. Dye immediately or dry for later. Some dyers add cream of tartar at 5-10% WOF with tin.
Spent mordant solution may be safely disposed of by pouring in a gravel driveway or path.
CAUTION: wear a mask when handling powders. Wear gloves when using tin, as it can be absorbed by the skin. BEST DONE OUTDOORS or with very good ventilation. Avoid breathing fumes.
Myrobalan, Ground
Ground nuts of a tropical tree, Terminalia chebula.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. Considered both a mordant and a dye, because of the high tannin content. Yields a light butter-yellow to beige or mushroom. Substantive, no mordant needed. Use at 15-20% WOF as a mordant on cellulose fibres. As a dye, use at 20-30% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE:soak 24 hrs in water to dissolve. Add more water if necessary and enter fibre. Bring to a high simmer for 1 hour. Let fibre cool overnight.
Light and washfastness: good.
Weld, Dried Chopped
Dried and chopped tops from Reseda luteola.
Use on protein or cellulose fibres. An ancient source of excellent bright yellows. Pre-mordanting recommended. Alum/c.o.t. mordant gives good results. Use at 30-50% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: soak in water overnight, then simmer mixture at 160-175°F for 1 hour. Cool and strain. Add more water if needed and enter pre-mordanted fibre. Hold at a 160-175°F for one hour. The brightest yellows develop at these cool temperatures.
Light & washfastness: very good.
Kamala Powder
Ground dried fruits of Mallotus philippinensis, sometimes called Lotus Tree.
Use on protein fibres. Produces brilliant yellow and orange tones similar to Saffron. Pre-mordanting recommended. Use at 20-30% WOF for medium shades.
TO USE: needs alkaline conditions: dissolve in warm water with Soda Ash at 3% WOG. Add wetted, premordanted fibre and simmer at 160-175°F for 1 hour. Cool, then rinse fibre in water with 1 cup of vinegar to neutralize the pH.
Light & washfastness: very good.